On a whim I googled “shit to do in Naples” and here are some of the results:

Naples is purported to smell like trash. It has a reputation as dirty, shabby and crime ridden, with a mafioso past. Maybe we are just rebels, but we loved Naples! Of course we were not there long and it was a bit smelly and gritty. This is the kind of city where a broken, mossy church facade is smashed between apartment buildings and old ladies in flower print kitchen dresses, sell soda and cigarettes out of the front room of their apartments.

It also has a lovely boardwalk near the port and is possibly the birthplace of pizza. While I looked on-line for somewhere well known, we opted for a random pizzeria on a non descript street.

We each ordered our own pizza and it was amazing. The dough salty, stretchy, fresh and covered in the best cheese and meat. A world cup game was on and a little kid behind us was fist-pumping, beating on his chest, hooting and at one point shouted “fuck you!” The staff at the restaurant was very nice and also helped us pick out an (expensive) antipasta plate of salad, anchovies and olives.

I wish we could have stayed, but we will be headed back there later this month…




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